Lifeguards perform 270 rescues amid dangerous surf conditions in Calif.

While some surfers have been chasing the high of catching a historic wave, California weather forecasters and lifeguards have a clear message for beachgoers: Stay out of the water.

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“In these large currents, we kind of want people to stay out of them if possible,” San Diego Fire-Rescue Department spokesperson Candace Hadley told SFGATE.

From Ventura County’s beaches all the way down to San Diego, the National Weather Service warns of life-threatening rip currents and a surf zone that’s dangerous for even the most skilled swimmer. Waves across the coast are reaching heights of 10 feet. The Wedge, a popular surfing spot at the eastern tip of the Balboa Peninsula in Newport Beach, has seen waves as high as 20 feet, the highest the waves have been in years. Despite warnings, the waves have brought out surfers hoping to catch a big one. 

“The waves are pretty spectacular the past few days,” North Tustin resident Reese Boyd told the LA Times. “You can see all the people on the beach. Everyone’s just as excited to see the waves this big.”

The National Weather Service is warning the public about dangerous currents through Friday afternoon, with the largest occurring on Thursday. There’s also a warning at Northern California beaches across Sonoma, Marin, San Mateo and Santa Cruz counties until 9 p.m. Thursday.

Lifeguards in San Diego report they’ve rescued 270 beachgoers at their shores since Sunday. 

“When you’re looking at the water, someone who is a regular beachgoer, they kind of recognize what a rip current looks like,” Hadley said. “Sometimes, at first glance, looking at it doesn’t look so bad. Then they get in and get caught in that rip current. There’s also areas where the sand moves around, so they could be walking, and there could be a dip in the sand. They could lose their footing.”

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Lauren Villafane, a forecaster for the National Weather Service, said these swells are common this time of year because of the winter storm systems moving in the South Pacific.

“They generate these long-period south swells, and the longer those periods are, the longer they’re gonna create the larger waves for us here,” she said.

On Tuesday, a mother and her two children were walking on the beach when a rogue wave dragged them out to sea. Bystanders were able to pull two of the three family members out of the water, but a massive search ensued for the girl who had gone missing. Her body was found Thursday, KABC-TV reported.

Hadley said that if visitors are insistent on getting in the water, they should follow important safety protocols. Beachgoers should swim in view of lifeguard towers and use the buddy system. If you are caught in a rip current, remain calm and swim parallel to the shore to avoid fatigue.